We are sitting watching the torrential rain (notice the theme?) waiting to get the shuttle to the airport to leave Darwin for Melbourne. The airport doesn't seem worried about the flight leaving on the edge of a cyclone, she'll be right they said.
Thursday 18th - contd
The rain carried on...but we decided to go out anyway. Everyone here just walks around in their ordinary clothes in it, our waterproofs look very out of place. We went to the Botanic Gardens ("Isn't it too wet?" said someone on the bus, ha ha) and fuirst to the nearby beach - rather like walking on Barmouth beach in August. The gardens were beautiful, the rainforest section seemed particularly appropriate for the day.
Later we decided to brave the film "Australia" in spite of what the critics have said. They were right. Don't know if it's been released in England yet? The plot and acting are dire, but if you put your fingers in your ears and just watch the scenery, it's tremendous. It was just what we'd seen for real the day before, so the timing was perfect. A couple of scenes were especially ironic - showing the cinema in Darwin in the 1930s, everyone fanning themselves because of the ferocious heat - while I was huddled in my waterproof in the present-day day one trying to get away from the ferocious air-conditioning...
And a walk back through the torrential rain...
Friday 19th December
Woke up to ...you've guessed it.
So another busride, this time to somewhere dry - the Museum and Art Gallery, small but very interesting. We particularly liked the didplay of all the venomous creatures around here...treading carefully so as not to be paralysed within 15 minutes, as seems quite likely, we walked along the cliffs and beaches, heading for shelter every half-hour or so. Saw some good birds, which don't appear to be venomous...on the whole.
Out in Darwin in the evening, torrential...well, you know. It didn't deter the Friday-night-before-Christmas revellers, was great fun. Walked back through etc etc.
We've loved Darwin in spite of the etc., but it has let us down a bit - we have seen signs of Christmas in several shops and malls, and even heard piped Xmas music twice, but it hasn't been too intrusive.
off to Melbourne any minute, so the adventurous first half of the trip is over - we probably won't blog much for a while as we spend Christmas with the family, the first since before Kate was born! So all of you have a great Christmas and New Year, we'll be thinking of you all.
Oh, and it's still raining!!
Friday, 19 December 2008
Wednesday, 17 December 2008
Thursday 18th DEC
Thursday 18th Dec.
We are sat in our backpackers lodge enjoying the vicissitudes of world travel. Phoning banks to unlock bankcards which their global security network has blocked. Watching the tropical rain falling in vertical rods and trying to coax an aged computer to a) stop defaulting to facebook and b) upload pictures at a slightly faster rate than I could develop them with chemicals. The local paper said the Cyclone will miss us so Jen put in a load of washing but the tropical rain is everywhere. We are still learning about "blogging" and had not picked up your many messages. We are very please to have received them, sorry we missed them. especially for "Trod", how could I forget you, at least you cannot argue with me wt this distance. Love to all at Longdon.
This pic. is from way back in November. It shows a fairly typical "wet" landing at dawn from a panga on a dark volcanic sand beach. The surf was often much bigger than this. Jen is to the left of the boat and next to her is Monica our certificated level 3 Galapagos guide. Who also owned and ran a pre-school in Santa Cruz. In the background between the two boats is the most recently active and youngest island, Less than 4000 years old and active last year.
This is how close you can get to the wildlife on Galapagos
This is not taken with a zoom lens. He is a very large land Iguana about 1 metre long.
This is a fur seal (actually a sea -lion) and can be distinguished by his external ears. Ahighlight was standing next to one of these about 2/3 metres long and seemingly fast asleep. The guide said he was guarding the 4 cubs playing in the water behind him and the women of the party complained that typically he was asleep on the job, but, seconds later he was chasing an invading young male back out to sea with the speed of a jet boat.
Jen, Monica and Jimmy riding a pangs
up
Wednesday 17th December
Monday 15th - concluded
Well, we didn't swim with the crocodiles but the Crocodylus exhibit in Darwin was really good. Billed intriguingly as "3 storeys of crocodile pens"... well, it's exactly that. It IS possible to swim with Snowy, a particularly mean 6 metre croc - in a strenghtened perspex cage bearing his teeth marks. But at $120 we decided against it. But there are loads of good crocodiley things, and an excellent Reptile Cente showing lots of the things that crawl, slither and bite up here -with good advice if you do get bitten. (Try to remember what it was, don't go near anything brown) We also cuddled a bearded dragon (about 20cm), a blue-tongued skink and an olive python. All were very lovable and well-behaved but we weren't allowed to take them home.
Tuesday 16th December
Up at 5.30 (this is habit-forming) for a pick-up by the coach taking us to Kakadu. Apparently this used to be a 14-hour drive by 4WD 30 years ago, but is now only 2hrs30 min from Darwin. Very beautiful drive passing througfh 5 distinct types of vegetation, from floodplain to rainforest, but mostly savannah. Raining all the way, very green! We started by seeing the Aboriginal rock paintings at Nuralangie and going for a short bushwalk to a lookout - during which we saw something brown, a deadly brown snake, which luckily slept peacefully in a watercourse and left us alone. Pretty little agile wallabies were around all day. The lookout gave us an inkling of what we were to experience - untold miles of untouched country, steep escarpments in the distance. The paintings were wonderful as well, we also began to get a feel for the culture which could survive in such a place.
By afternoon, the rain had cleared, not to return until the night; very hot and humid, but we were told it wasn't nearly as bad as it was last week when the Wet began, so we felt very lucky - and it was more tolerable than we'd expected. So we had a glorious cruise on the Yellow Water Billabong. We saw pretty little jacanas tiptoeing over the lilypads, white-bellied sea-eagles, bid Jabiru storks, a lovely diver -a bit like a cormorant but with a very long neck, called a Darter, brolgas flying over, magpie geese, several types of egret... it was very like being in Galapagos, the wildlife let us get very close without being disturbed. And that went for the crocs as well...about 7 or 8 of them. Very exciting.
After that, we'd opted for a flight over this bit of Kakadu, along with one other person from the tour, so we were taken to a tiny bush airstrip for a completely staggering hour's flight on a small Skyvan light plane. What an experience, flying over the savannah and wetlands until we reached the escarpments we'd seen in the morning. We were flown aroungd some of the famous waterfalls, which after the rains of the last week were very spectacular - as was the flying at this point, involving banked turns of 40 to 60 degrees! We flew as close as you can get to Arnemland, which is Aboriginal land and can only be entered with a government permit. The escarpments were magnificently eroded into endless rock formations. It was impossible to see how the first explorers ever made it to the Top End. We finally landed at another tiny airstrip - made for a large uranium mine which we flew close to . With a healthy glow we emerged from the flight- we were so glad we'd done it. We were told that in that hour we'd covered perhaps 1% of the area of Kakadu. Trying to describe its vastness is impossible.
Then we were delivered to our motel, in the depths of the bush. A lovely place, where you can walk out of your room to see dingoes and wallabies within a few yards. We went for a walk to the local billabong - making sure NOT to go close to the edge, and watched the birdlife and the butterflies smothering a tree in blossom - all the varieties you might see in a tropical house at home. Then a swim in the pool as it got dark, flying foxes overhead, and delicious barramundi (they live in the billabongs) for dinner.
Wednesday 17th December
A lie in this morning, breakfast at 7:00. This morning there were only 2 of us on the 46 seater coach. The "crocs" didn't get the rest, all bar 2 were only on a day trip and returned to Darwin last night. We had a 45 minute drive back across Kakadu to its western border, picking up the other couple who had stayed in a more expensive hotel built in the shape of a crocodile???? Our first stop was at Ubirra, a site of many Rock paintings that has restricted access. Our coachdriver has a key for a locked gate, but he was still checked up on by a ranger a couple of hours later. On the way to this place the coach had to cross two floodways with water about half a metre deep. The paintings were spectacular but the views over the escarpment and the wetlands from the lookout matched them. You don't know what green is 'till you've seen Kakadu in the Wet. As usual there were many interesting plants and wildlife including "Drongo" birds, Kites, Monitor lizards, tiny rock wallabies and the huge Walleroos, a heavily built species of Kangaroo, of which we saw two having a stand up boxing match.
Then came a hic-cup in the day. We were at the East Alligator river which was now in flood. These flood waters had covered the floodways we crossed earlier and had now cut the main route eastwards (until next March!!!). It had also caused our scheduled boat trip to be shutdown and the boats taken out of the water and moved to their wet season location. This move wouldn't complete until next week so the tour was rejigged. Morning tea then a drive back out of the park on the way the coach had to brake hard to avoid hitting a 2/3 foot Frilled lizard that sat in the middle of the road and refused to give until with the coach over the top of him he took to his hind legs and ran.
A lunch stop at the "Bark Hut" (transport caff. extraordinaire) then a hastily organised trip on the Adelaide river closer to Darwin. We had a 30 seat high speed swamp boat with just 4 of us in, as the guide cruised the river and tempted out about 8 crocodiles in various places who have learned that this boat gives them a quick snack of lamb chops if they swim out to it and are prepared to jump high out of the water to grab it. Each of the crocs had different features, "personalities"? The biggest "Stumpy" an old black male took his chops then cruised around the boat leaving you in no doubt that he fancied you next.
The guide then fed the Kites that dived and plucked the meat off the waters surface with great skill. Crocs. have proved to be frightening and fascinating, undoubtedly some people in the Northern territories have a "croc" obsession which is quite understandable. They are predicting a bad flooding "Wet Season" based on the early breeding of the crocs. Back to Darwin tired with exhilaration but we now have the warnings of the first Cyclone of the season and may look for an early flight out.
Well, we didn't swim with the crocodiles but the Crocodylus exhibit in Darwin was really good. Billed intriguingly as "3 storeys of crocodile pens"... well, it's exactly that. It IS possible to swim with Snowy, a particularly mean 6 metre croc - in a strenghtened perspex cage bearing his teeth marks. But at $120 we decided against it. But there are loads of good crocodiley things, and an excellent Reptile Cente showing lots of the things that crawl, slither and bite up here -with good advice if you do get bitten. (Try to remember what it was, don't go near anything brown) We also cuddled a bearded dragon (about 20cm), a blue-tongued skink and an olive python. All were very lovable and well-behaved but we weren't allowed to take them home.
Tuesday 16th December
Up at 5.30 (this is habit-forming) for a pick-up by the coach taking us to Kakadu. Apparently this used to be a 14-hour drive by 4WD 30 years ago, but is now only 2hrs30 min from Darwin. Very beautiful drive passing througfh 5 distinct types of vegetation, from floodplain to rainforest, but mostly savannah. Raining all the way, very green! We started by seeing the Aboriginal rock paintings at Nuralangie and going for a short bushwalk to a lookout - during which we saw something brown, a deadly brown snake, which luckily slept peacefully in a watercourse and left us alone. Pretty little agile wallabies were around all day. The lookout gave us an inkling of what we were to experience - untold miles of untouched country, steep escarpments in the distance. The paintings were wonderful as well, we also began to get a feel for the culture which could survive in such a place.
By afternoon, the rain had cleared, not to return until the night; very hot and humid, but we were told it wasn't nearly as bad as it was last week when the Wet began, so we felt very lucky - and it was more tolerable than we'd expected. So we had a glorious cruise on the Yellow Water Billabong. We saw pretty little jacanas tiptoeing over the lilypads, white-bellied sea-eagles, bid Jabiru storks, a lovely diver -a bit like a cormorant but with a very long neck, called a Darter, brolgas flying over, magpie geese, several types of egret... it was very like being in Galapagos, the wildlife let us get very close without being disturbed. And that went for the crocs as well...about 7 or 8 of them. Very exciting.
After that, we'd opted for a flight over this bit of Kakadu, along with one other person from the tour, so we were taken to a tiny bush airstrip for a completely staggering hour's flight on a small Skyvan light plane. What an experience, flying over the savannah and wetlands until we reached the escarpments we'd seen in the morning. We were flown aroungd some of the famous waterfalls, which after the rains of the last week were very spectacular - as was the flying at this point, involving banked turns of 40 to 60 degrees! We flew as close as you can get to Arnemland, which is Aboriginal land and can only be entered with a government permit. The escarpments were magnificently eroded into endless rock formations. It was impossible to see how the first explorers ever made it to the Top End. We finally landed at another tiny airstrip - made for a large uranium mine which we flew close to . With a healthy glow we emerged from the flight- we were so glad we'd done it. We were told that in that hour we'd covered perhaps 1% of the area of Kakadu. Trying to describe its vastness is impossible.
Then we were delivered to our motel, in the depths of the bush. A lovely place, where you can walk out of your room to see dingoes and wallabies within a few yards. We went for a walk to the local billabong - making sure NOT to go close to the edge, and watched the birdlife and the butterflies smothering a tree in blossom - all the varieties you might see in a tropical house at home. Then a swim in the pool as it got dark, flying foxes overhead, and delicious barramundi (they live in the billabongs) for dinner.
Wednesday 17th December
A lie in this morning, breakfast at 7:00. This morning there were only 2 of us on the 46 seater coach. The "crocs" didn't get the rest, all bar 2 were only on a day trip and returned to Darwin last night. We had a 45 minute drive back across Kakadu to its western border, picking up the other couple who had stayed in a more expensive hotel built in the shape of a crocodile???? Our first stop was at Ubirra, a site of many Rock paintings that has restricted access. Our coachdriver has a key for a locked gate, but he was still checked up on by a ranger a couple of hours later. On the way to this place the coach had to cross two floodways with water about half a metre deep. The paintings were spectacular but the views over the escarpment and the wetlands from the lookout matched them. You don't know what green is 'till you've seen Kakadu in the Wet. As usual there were many interesting plants and wildlife including "Drongo" birds, Kites, Monitor lizards, tiny rock wallabies and the huge Walleroos, a heavily built species of Kangaroo, of which we saw two having a stand up boxing match.
Then came a hic-cup in the day. We were at the East Alligator river which was now in flood. These flood waters had covered the floodways we crossed earlier and had now cut the main route eastwards (until next March!!!). It had also caused our scheduled boat trip to be shutdown and the boats taken out of the water and moved to their wet season location. This move wouldn't complete until next week so the tour was rejigged. Morning tea then a drive back out of the park on the way the coach had to brake hard to avoid hitting a 2/3 foot Frilled lizard that sat in the middle of the road and refused to give until with the coach over the top of him he took to his hind legs and ran.
A lunch stop at the "Bark Hut" (transport caff. extraordinaire) then a hastily organised trip on the Adelaide river closer to Darwin. We had a 30 seat high speed swamp boat with just 4 of us in, as the guide cruised the river and tempted out about 8 crocodiles in various places who have learned that this boat gives them a quick snack of lamb chops if they swim out to it and are prepared to jump high out of the water to grab it. Each of the crocs had different features, "personalities"? The biggest "Stumpy" an old black male took his chops then cruised around the boat leaving you in no doubt that he fancied you next.
The guide then fed the Kites that dived and plucked the meat off the waters surface with great skill. Crocs. have proved to be frightening and fascinating, undoubtedly some people in the Northern territories have a "croc" obsession which is quite understandable. They are predicting a bad flooding "Wet Season" based on the early breeding of the crocs. Back to Darwin tired with exhilaration but we now have the warnings of the first Cyclone of the season and may look for an early flight out.
Sunday, 14 December 2008
Monday 15th December
More Photos
This is the dining room on the boat. The food was superb 3 Full meals a day whatever the set of the sea.
This is just one of several good Tortoise photos.
It serves to make a point about age as we are the youngest here by along way. The wrinkle counting contest was a close thing. This was in a special reserve on the Island of Baltra but later we saw some in the wild, just as big.
Tried to upload more photos on the computer in this lodge but again no go at this speed.
Sunday 14th Dec.
A 4 hour flight across the whole of Australia. A quick view of the Blue Mountains inland from Sydney then hours of brown desert. The ground then turned green and towering clouds appeared as we approached Darwin. We had to put our clocks back by 1 and a half hours with the longitude change. On landing we hit real humid tropical heat and raging thunderstorms.
We are in a basic but very good backpackers lodge, the former YWCA, but we would struggle if it did not have Aircon. We strolled around town that evening but with a warning in our ears that some nearby streets were not safe after "10" because of the drunks, we promised to behave. We did have one drink in the YHA bar watching the England/India test match. It then closed at 9:00
The views over the Darwin Harbour are splendid but it seems to be a measure of life here that the war years 1941-45 are heavily commemorated. Until you see it it is hard to realise how desperately close Australia came to being invaded by the Japanese and how threadbare the defence was.
Our evening was punctuated by a fantastic range of bird calls finising with a huge tree filled with screeching Lorikeets above the Vietnamese restaurant we were in.
Monday 15th Decmber
Typical of the tropics, we understand, this morning was clear and beautiful. By 8:00 we were down by the sea at a fish feeding station. Here at high tide the fish come in to be hand fed, Diamond Mullett, "Mother in law fish" (mouths outlined in white), Milkfish the size of sharks, Shovel nosed rays, Toadfish, and Barramundi, loitering with intent. The mullet mobbed your feet as you paddled and would take the bread very gently from your hand and wriggle to be stroked. They were so lovely Jennifer has decided she cannot eat fish and chips again, unfortunate as thats what I've booked for tonight.
Our lunch break, (after calling at the YHA bar again to watch the Honk Kong 6 a side cricket), included a swim in the lodge pool before the heavens opened with the daily storm which fell in torrents. It is easing now so we may go to swim with the Crocodiles???
Saturday, 13 December 2008
first image
As we sailed we were usually accompanied by flights of these beautiful Frigate birds and occasionally the even more beautiful tropic birds which were too quick to photograph. Unfortunately at the end of the trip we found that the frigates were also good bombers as several of us one lunchtime had to resort to changes of clothes and showers.
Sunday 13th December
We are sat in the Sydney airport terminal at about 10am. waiting for our flight to Darwin with some trepidation. We have watched the weather forecasts there for over a week and seen only storms and rain and 30 degree + temperatures.
Saturaday 12 th December
Today was a different season in Sydney, 18 degrees and driving rain gave way to 34 degrees, hot sun and a gale force hot wind!! What a country!
We headed off first on a ferry to the seaside suburb of Manly. We got what turned out to be a bargain of a day pass for all transport for about 7 quid. At Manly the surf was rolling high and the weekend beach Aussies were just getting in to a good day. We then walked up onto a headland to the south which was a wonderful bit of bush country, with a fantastis array of birds and some very elusive frogs who sang like the "frog chorus" but could not be seen anywhere, and went quiet if you peered into the undergrowth. We did spot a "snake-headed turtle" in the pools.
At lunch time we caught the ferry back and had a delightful harbour cruise before going on the bus (free) to the Maritime museum. to get there we had to walk across Darling harbour bridge which is a fantastic opening swing bridge, with a mono-rail running over the top. Th e musem is first class, we visited the tall ship "James Craig", (Jennifer declined to book a bunk on their next trip), A replica of the Endeavour, a modern destryer and submarine and many opther live and static exhibits. On a hot day good though it was we were "museumed out" by 4:30 and caught a ferry (free) back to circular quay.
After an enourmous ice-cream on the quayside, eaten in the teeth of 34 degree gale gusts, we took a stroll around the incredible botanic gardens, in which roost a large population of flying foxes (huge Fruit bats), just waking up to fly across the bay. walking back to our hotel to shower and freshen up, feeling dusty and tired we had to walk through the "Glitterati" of Sydney all in Tux and posh frocks, supping champagne outside the Opera house.
Completely refreshed we then dined very well at a quayside restaurant ( indoors as the wind did blow). We then got our last bargain of the day when we jumped the late ferry to Woolwich with our card and watched the brilliant fireworks set off in the middle of the bay by the opera house and the had an hours beautiful tour of the bay on a quiet ferry with the stars out and all the Sydney lights displayed, fantastic. There was even a full moon. "Too many splendours" said the bloke next to us. Too right.
Saturaday 12 th December
Today was a different season in Sydney, 18 degrees and driving rain gave way to 34 degrees, hot sun and a gale force hot wind!! What a country!
We headed off first on a ferry to the seaside suburb of Manly. We got what turned out to be a bargain of a day pass for all transport for about 7 quid. At Manly the surf was rolling high and the weekend beach Aussies were just getting in to a good day. We then walked up onto a headland to the south which was a wonderful bit of bush country, with a fantastis array of birds and some very elusive frogs who sang like the "frog chorus" but could not be seen anywhere, and went quiet if you peered into the undergrowth. We did spot a "snake-headed turtle" in the pools.
At lunch time we caught the ferry back and had a delightful harbour cruise before going on the bus (free) to the Maritime museum. to get there we had to walk across Darling harbour bridge which is a fantastic opening swing bridge, with a mono-rail running over the top. Th e musem is first class, we visited the tall ship "James Craig", (Jennifer declined to book a bunk on their next trip), A replica of the Endeavour, a modern destryer and submarine and many opther live and static exhibits. On a hot day good though it was we were "museumed out" by 4:30 and caught a ferry (free) back to circular quay.
After an enourmous ice-cream on the quayside, eaten in the teeth of 34 degree gale gusts, we took a stroll around the incredible botanic gardens, in which roost a large population of flying foxes (huge Fruit bats), just waking up to fly across the bay. walking back to our hotel to shower and freshen up, feeling dusty and tired we had to walk through the "Glitterati" of Sydney all in Tux and posh frocks, supping champagne outside the Opera house.
Completely refreshed we then dined very well at a quayside restaurant ( indoors as the wind did blow). We then got our last bargain of the day when we jumped the late ferry to Woolwich with our card and watched the brilliant fireworks set off in the middle of the bay by the opera house and the had an hours beautiful tour of the bay on a quiet ferry with the stars out and all the Sydney lights displayed, fantastic. There was even a full moon. "Too many splendours" said the bloke next to us. Too right.
Thursday, 11 December 2008
Friday 12th December
Monday 8th December
Haircut for Jen! And a very nice one too. The hairdresser horrified to hear that it'll now be dark by late afternoon in the UK.
Then we went a few km. to Mogo Zoo - an excellent little place, good breeding programmes. Including for snow leopards, white lions and red pandas. Also some very nicely performing otters, and best of all a fantastic tapir enclosure with swimming tapirs, J. in paradise. Harry of course had his photo taken with them, he is a very well-travelled baby tapir, thanks to Rebecca who was one of my pupils last year.
Tuesday 9th
A sunny day in Australia at last! We headed up into the Snowy Mountains, which you can see from Moruya. Stopped off at a lovely litttle National Trust village called Tilbe, kept in 19th century style, Then on for a long way, up and up a road which became like a rollercoaster till we came to Piper's Lookout, we were lucky enough to see the sea across the plains, a beautiful view. On the way back we stopped at the coast, a nice town called Bergamui, where we were good Samaritans and rescued a snake-headed turtle which was sitiing in the middle of the road! We've now re-acquainted ourselves with most of the Aussie wildlife - kangaroos, wallabies, echidnas, kookaburras, magpies, rosellas and other parrots, cockatoos, galahs... etc. etc. The only one we were used to seeing in Victoria which we haven't here is koalas - in fact in the forest at Bergamui therewas a notice saying : Zero Tolerance for Koalas! Don't know what that's all about, nor do the people at Sydney Zoo.
Wednesday 10th
A visit to the excellent little Botanic Gardens at Batemans Bay, lots of wildlife and good info on native vegetation. Then a couple of beach visits, to Broulee again which we love, and Tuross Head - lovely tombolo beach, great pelicans!
Thursday 11th
Packed and cleaned up at the house - thanks, Andy & Erica, we really enjoyed our stay there, very comfortable and restful. Then drove to Sydney to return the car, arrived at this gorgeous little hotel - the Russell at The Rocks- late afternoon. More thanks to E&A who recommended it to us. One block back from Circular Quay, within 2 mins you can see the Opera House (15 mins walk) and the Harbour Bridge, so we had a good stickybeak around then caught a ferry to Darling Harbour for dinner. Hordes of flying foxes were also heading for their dinner, from the Botanical Gardeens where they spend the days roosting. Darling very noisy and lively, especially at 10pm when huge dinner-cruise boats come in, each one more huge & fanciful than the last. Walked back through central Sydney, again very lively, but blissfully low-key when it comes to Christmas - no street lights, and only a few decorations in shops and restaurants. Yet they say it's frenzied here!
Friday 12th December
Set off at 6.20 am to do a trip booked from England, little idea what to expect but it was wonderful - despite the rain which gradually become more torrential and is even worse 12 hours later! Starting at the Opera House at 7am we went for a backstage tour - really fascinating and exciting. Massive!! Then a huge breakfast in the Green Room backstage, and a water taxi which arrived on time to the minute, to Taronga Zoo, where we rode the cable car from the entrance up into the heart of the Zoo. What a place. We were met by a keeper, Elli, who took us off for a 2 hour+ Experience - meeeting koalas, stroking bilbies and echidnas and wallabies, and seeing how the food is prepared and generally learning all about the native wildlife. Ending with morning tea (of course, all in the tour) and 2 toy wombats, friends for Harry. We trailed on through the rain, saw the Malaysian tapir (very bad-tempered, not like the lovely Brazilian ones), and watched the amazing penguin and leopard seal underwater tanks before giving up on the rain and coming back to the hotel. Forgot the reptile house, superb, including a Komodo dragon, enormous. The best zoo we've ever seen, surely in the world? If you come to Sydney, you must do this tour. Better weather expected tomorrow, we're fed up of this Welsh weather now!
Haircut for Jen! And a very nice one too. The hairdresser horrified to hear that it'll now be dark by late afternoon in the UK.
Then we went a few km. to Mogo Zoo - an excellent little place, good breeding programmes. Including for snow leopards, white lions and red pandas. Also some very nicely performing otters, and best of all a fantastic tapir enclosure with swimming tapirs, J. in paradise. Harry of course had his photo taken with them, he is a very well-travelled baby tapir, thanks to Rebecca who was one of my pupils last year.
Tuesday 9th
A sunny day in Australia at last! We headed up into the Snowy Mountains, which you can see from Moruya. Stopped off at a lovely litttle National Trust village called Tilbe, kept in 19th century style, Then on for a long way, up and up a road which became like a rollercoaster till we came to Piper's Lookout, we were lucky enough to see the sea across the plains, a beautiful view. On the way back we stopped at the coast, a nice town called Bergamui, where we were good Samaritans and rescued a snake-headed turtle which was sitiing in the middle of the road! We've now re-acquainted ourselves with most of the Aussie wildlife - kangaroos, wallabies, echidnas, kookaburras, magpies, rosellas and other parrots, cockatoos, galahs... etc. etc. The only one we were used to seeing in Victoria which we haven't here is koalas - in fact in the forest at Bergamui therewas a notice saying : Zero Tolerance for Koalas! Don't know what that's all about, nor do the people at Sydney Zoo.
Wednesday 10th
A visit to the excellent little Botanic Gardens at Batemans Bay, lots of wildlife and good info on native vegetation. Then a couple of beach visits, to Broulee again which we love, and Tuross Head - lovely tombolo beach, great pelicans!
Thursday 11th
Packed and cleaned up at the house - thanks, Andy & Erica, we really enjoyed our stay there, very comfortable and restful. Then drove to Sydney to return the car, arrived at this gorgeous little hotel - the Russell at The Rocks- late afternoon. More thanks to E&A who recommended it to us. One block back from Circular Quay, within 2 mins you can see the Opera House (15 mins walk) and the Harbour Bridge, so we had a good stickybeak around then caught a ferry to Darling Harbour for dinner. Hordes of flying foxes were also heading for their dinner, from the Botanical Gardeens where they spend the days roosting. Darling very noisy and lively, especially at 10pm when huge dinner-cruise boats come in, each one more huge & fanciful than the last. Walked back through central Sydney, again very lively, but blissfully low-key when it comes to Christmas - no street lights, and only a few decorations in shops and restaurants. Yet they say it's frenzied here!
Friday 12th December
Set off at 6.20 am to do a trip booked from England, little idea what to expect but it was wonderful - despite the rain which gradually become more torrential and is even worse 12 hours later! Starting at the Opera House at 7am we went for a backstage tour - really fascinating and exciting. Massive!! Then a huge breakfast in the Green Room backstage, and a water taxi which arrived on time to the minute, to Taronga Zoo, where we rode the cable car from the entrance up into the heart of the Zoo. What a place. We were met by a keeper, Elli, who took us off for a 2 hour+ Experience - meeeting koalas, stroking bilbies and echidnas and wallabies, and seeing how the food is prepared and generally learning all about the native wildlife. Ending with morning tea (of course, all in the tour) and 2 toy wombats, friends for Harry. We trailed on through the rain, saw the Malaysian tapir (very bad-tempered, not like the lovely Brazilian ones), and watched the amazing penguin and leopard seal underwater tanks before giving up on the rain and coming back to the hotel. Forgot the reptile house, superb, including a Komodo dragon, enormous. The best zoo we've ever seen, surely in the world? If you come to Sydney, you must do this tour. Better weather expected tomorrow, we're fed up of this Welsh weather now!
Sunday, 7 December 2008
Monday 8th DECEMBER
Wed 3rd DEC.
Picking up from the cold night, these high plains in NZ to the east of their big Alpine Mtns arevery windy Clear sunny an often Cold, then scorching duing the day. An ennervating Climate some say?? this morning we went to the top of the Mt. John observatory just next to Lake Tekapo.. The sky was couldless and there was the most incredible 360 degree panorama that we spent over 2 hours taking in. Looking sketching ,photographing, taking tea, walking round the mountain. we were very reluctant to go down. On harsh bit to go with the stark beauty however was that as we looked across at mount Cook 2 Japanese climbers were fighting for their lives near the summit. We later heard that noe had died. A very tough land. We then drove down onto the Canterbury plains and back to Christchurch. The plains have a rouad that has virtually no bends in 100 KM. of driving and on this day was swept by a gale force wind which was also very warm. Huge fields of Sheep Cattle and Deer were being irrigated by massive sprayers as the wind dessicates everything very badly. Our last night in NZ was blessed with a fantastic gastronomic experience in C'church, a place called "Cookin' on Gaz" would stand the Egon Ronay tests easily.
Thur 4th Dec
Everything begins to slow down after this. We cleared up the van and dropped it off. Did the usual airport hanging around. An uneventfulflight to Aus. and unlike South America the usual Po- faced welcome of western civilization at immigration and by the biological police. Our first hic-up occurred when the car pick up was not there but we got the car by 7:00 and $ hour drive later saw us into Moruya, where the arrangements for getting into Erica and Andys house were so good we did it in the dark.
Friday 5th to Sunday 7th Dec.
We have really slowed down. indeed yesterday we went to the cinema in Batemans bay to watch a Bond film to get the adrenaline going again, we have'nt seen a world heritage site in days!!!!. we have aquainted ourselves with Moruya, avery pleasent town and driven briefly into the bush to recapture the smells and birdsong that we haven't heard for 16 years. We have both had our hair cut and done all the domestics of washing, writing and uploading some 1800 pictures and videos.
We have a few more quiet days before leaving for Dawin and will probably pick up the blog again at the end of the week.
Picking up from the cold night, these high plains in NZ to the east of their big Alpine Mtns arevery windy Clear sunny an often Cold, then scorching duing the day. An ennervating Climate some say?? this morning we went to the top of the Mt. John observatory just next to Lake Tekapo.. The sky was couldless and there was the most incredible 360 degree panorama that we spent over 2 hours taking in. Looking sketching ,photographing, taking tea, walking round the mountain. we were very reluctant to go down. On harsh bit to go with the stark beauty however was that as we looked across at mount Cook 2 Japanese climbers were fighting for their lives near the summit. We later heard that noe had died. A very tough land. We then drove down onto the Canterbury plains and back to Christchurch. The plains have a rouad that has virtually no bends in 100 KM. of driving and on this day was swept by a gale force wind which was also very warm. Huge fields of Sheep Cattle and Deer were being irrigated by massive sprayers as the wind dessicates everything very badly. Our last night in NZ was blessed with a fantastic gastronomic experience in C'church, a place called "Cookin' on Gaz" would stand the Egon Ronay tests easily.
Thur 4th Dec
Everything begins to slow down after this. We cleared up the van and dropped it off. Did the usual airport hanging around. An uneventfulflight to Aus. and unlike South America the usual Po- faced welcome of western civilization at immigration and by the biological police. Our first hic-up occurred when the car pick up was not there but we got the car by 7:00 and $ hour drive later saw us into Moruya, where the arrangements for getting into Erica and Andys house were so good we did it in the dark.
Friday 5th to Sunday 7th Dec.
We have really slowed down. indeed yesterday we went to the cinema in Batemans bay to watch a Bond film to get the adrenaline going again, we have'nt seen a world heritage site in days!!!!. we have aquainted ourselves with Moruya, avery pleasent town and driven briefly into the bush to recapture the smells and birdsong that we haven't heard for 16 years. We have both had our hair cut and done all the domestics of washing, writing and uploading some 1800 pictures and videos.
We have a few more quiet days before leaving for Dawin and will probably pick up the blog again at the end of the week.
Thursday, 4 December 2008
Friday 5th December
Sorry for the delay in blogging but it has been hectic. The last blog had a date error and we will start this one on Saturday 29th Nov. We have currently come to rest in a place called Moruya in Australia and now have a week to catch our breath.
Sat 29th Nov.
for all the wonderful things we have done this mornings spectacular adrenaline rush was the most spine tingling so far. We had a delay due to weather for our glacier flight over the Fox Glacier, BUT, in meant that we had a whole helicopter to ourselves and the sky and glacier too.
The flight lifted off in clearing weather and by the time we'd climbed the glacier it was brilliantly clear. We climbed over the wall of the arrete at the side of this huge glacier flew over 2 more glaciers and around the face of Mount Cook. All of this was superb but then we landed on the Neve field at the top of the glacier, ran around and threw snowballs had our photo taken by the pilot who then processed it into postcard form in the back of the helicopter and presented them to us on the way down. The New Zealaders do not miss a tourism trick. The remainder of the day could not be bettered so we motored down to Queenstown and to a place called Glenorchy for the night. An anti-climax but nevertheless stunning coastal and mountain scenery all the way.
Sunday 30th Nov.
Lynne and Greg will be interested in this one as we spent the morning walking up the start of the famouse "Routeburn Track". It is a 3/4 day walk and we only had 3/4 hours but we got up into the mountain part seeing great waterfalls and some deep diving gorge runners below us. Our picnis lunch next to the Dart River however showed us what a different country N.Z. is. Within minutes the dry river bed had been whipped up into a tremendous dust storm and we had to leave. The day ended with another long drive to get to Manapouri in the far west to see the fiords. The campsite there was a bit wierd. Lindsay porter would like it. It was a car graveyard, mainly Morris 1000's of all types, not restored just lovingly left to rest.
Monday 1st Dec.
Manapouri has again the most spectacular views across the lake of the same name towards the western mountains. Last night was spent taking evening light photos' from the beach. This morning we were on a fast boat crossing the same lake again in beautiful light at 8:00 am.
The lake is so large even at over 20 knots the boat takes an hour to cross it. We arrived at the terminal to a brilliant rainbow. Warning sign!!
We transferred to a coach and were driven over a mile underground to see a massive HEP station which uses the lake water and the drop from there to the sea to generate power. When we emerged we drove over a high pass on a road built just to build the power station but it got murkier and murkier. We dropped to sea level in Deep Cove , Doubtful sound. In this case very Doubtful!.
We got a big High powered Catamaran to whisk us down this massive fiord but the drizzel that the crew described was more like the rain in Tewkesbury in July 2007. It was very atmospheric with swirling mist and rain but not beautiful. At the end of the Sound we had a bouncy sea ride to view the rare Crested Penguins and a big colony of fur seals. The weather relented a bit on the way back but the mountain road on the bus and the start of the trip back over the lake were grim, then, half way across the lake the sun came out and apparently Manpouri was dry all day.
Such is the time shortage of days left in NZ we set off straight away heading back north towards Queenstown. Unfortunately the local constabulary have an interesting device that clocks your speed as you drive towards their cars. We camped in Arrowtown that night, not the jail, and wandered around this lovely old mining town and setting for bits of Lord of the Rings.
We had fish and chips from a Turkish restaurant and drank NZ beer in a pub playing the highlights from the premier league week?
Tuesday 2nd Dec.
We spent the morning enjoying Arrowtown and the tracks around it in a liesurely way, taking morning tea, window shopping, very nice but we got the adrenaline twitch. W e set off for the north then remembered the Queenstown Jet boats. We turned back drove to Arthurs point, parked at 1:29, booked at 1:30 and by 1:35 were in a 500 horsepower jet boat flying through the narrow gorges of the Shotover river at high speed through water only inches deep and doing splashy 360 degree spins. By 2:30 we were on the road again completely adrenaline rushed. but ceratainly one of the greatest things we've ever done. The boat driver reminded us of our nephew Owen, think we've found a new career path for him.
We then headed for Lake Tekapo through the MacKenzie country, astonishing huge rolling mountains, semi-desert and narrow passes, until we were on the high plains where Rohan was filmed, and drove through ferocious winds to the amazing sight of the deep turquoise lake in a great bowl of high peaks. Freezing night! More later of that.
Wed 3rd December
Happy Birthday Kate!!
Sat 29th Nov.
for all the wonderful things we have done this mornings spectacular adrenaline rush was the most spine tingling so far. We had a delay due to weather for our glacier flight over the Fox Glacier, BUT, in meant that we had a whole helicopter to ourselves and the sky and glacier too.
The flight lifted off in clearing weather and by the time we'd climbed the glacier it was brilliantly clear. We climbed over the wall of the arrete at the side of this huge glacier flew over 2 more glaciers and around the face of Mount Cook. All of this was superb but then we landed on the Neve field at the top of the glacier, ran around and threw snowballs had our photo taken by the pilot who then processed it into postcard form in the back of the helicopter and presented them to us on the way down. The New Zealaders do not miss a tourism trick. The remainder of the day could not be bettered so we motored down to Queenstown and to a place called Glenorchy for the night. An anti-climax but nevertheless stunning coastal and mountain scenery all the way.
Sunday 30th Nov.
Lynne and Greg will be interested in this one as we spent the morning walking up the start of the famouse "Routeburn Track". It is a 3/4 day walk and we only had 3/4 hours but we got up into the mountain part seeing great waterfalls and some deep diving gorge runners below us. Our picnis lunch next to the Dart River however showed us what a different country N.Z. is. Within minutes the dry river bed had been whipped up into a tremendous dust storm and we had to leave. The day ended with another long drive to get to Manapouri in the far west to see the fiords. The campsite there was a bit wierd. Lindsay porter would like it. It was a car graveyard, mainly Morris 1000's of all types, not restored just lovingly left to rest.
Monday 1st Dec.
Manapouri has again the most spectacular views across the lake of the same name towards the western mountains. Last night was spent taking evening light photos' from the beach. This morning we were on a fast boat crossing the same lake again in beautiful light at 8:00 am.
The lake is so large even at over 20 knots the boat takes an hour to cross it. We arrived at the terminal to a brilliant rainbow. Warning sign!!
We transferred to a coach and were driven over a mile underground to see a massive HEP station which uses the lake water and the drop from there to the sea to generate power. When we emerged we drove over a high pass on a road built just to build the power station but it got murkier and murkier. We dropped to sea level in Deep Cove , Doubtful sound. In this case very Doubtful!.
We got a big High powered Catamaran to whisk us down this massive fiord but the drizzel that the crew described was more like the rain in Tewkesbury in July 2007. It was very atmospheric with swirling mist and rain but not beautiful. At the end of the Sound we had a bouncy sea ride to view the rare Crested Penguins and a big colony of fur seals. The weather relented a bit on the way back but the mountain road on the bus and the start of the trip back over the lake were grim, then, half way across the lake the sun came out and apparently Manpouri was dry all day.
Such is the time shortage of days left in NZ we set off straight away heading back north towards Queenstown. Unfortunately the local constabulary have an interesting device that clocks your speed as you drive towards their cars. We camped in Arrowtown that night, not the jail, and wandered around this lovely old mining town and setting for bits of Lord of the Rings.
We had fish and chips from a Turkish restaurant and drank NZ beer in a pub playing the highlights from the premier league week?
Tuesday 2nd Dec.
We spent the morning enjoying Arrowtown and the tracks around it in a liesurely way, taking morning tea, window shopping, very nice but we got the adrenaline twitch. W e set off for the north then remembered the Queenstown Jet boats. We turned back drove to Arthurs point, parked at 1:29, booked at 1:30 and by 1:35 were in a 500 horsepower jet boat flying through the narrow gorges of the Shotover river at high speed through water only inches deep and doing splashy 360 degree spins. By 2:30 we were on the road again completely adrenaline rushed. but ceratainly one of the greatest things we've ever done. The boat driver reminded us of our nephew Owen, think we've found a new career path for him.
We then headed for Lake Tekapo through the MacKenzie country, astonishing huge rolling mountains, semi-desert and narrow passes, until we were on the high plains where Rohan was filmed, and drove through ferocious winds to the amazing sight of the deep turquoise lake in a great bowl of high peaks. Freezing night! More later of that.
Wed 3rd December
Happy Birthday Kate!!
Thursday, 27 November 2008
Friday 27th November
Woke this morning to a glorious sight - and site- the mountains clear and blue skies. night we went looking for gloworms - but in the wrong place!though we saw some glowing things, not sure what they were. If you come to NZ you have to organise your trip round visiting the site, Jackson's Retreat - it's that good.
We went for a bushwalk, a truly natural on, this a.m. Beautiful plantlife, lots of incredible birdsong, though we only managed to see a few as the bush is so thick - cape pigeons , weta (bush hens) and bellbirds. The trail led to the pub, handily, and it was as good as the campsite.
then sadly it was time to move on, and we drove following thwe ice-blue river down to the coast. Jen with bad hayfever - great time to find I'm allergic to NZ pollen. We passed a lake where the picnic benches were half-submerged, looked like an English summer! We've been so lucky, they had an atrocious storm last weekend here, people are saying the worst they've ever seen Roads were washed away, a lot of damage done. But the sun's still hot for us!
We stopped off at Franz Josef and walked up to look at the glacier there - awesome, and an evil-looking grey river flowing from it. Then on to here - Fox - another lovely campsite, on the slopes of Mount Cook. It has its head in the clouds, but the forcast's good again for tomorrow when we're booked to do the helicopter flight landing on the glacier.
love to all of you following, it's great to see so many people taking an interest. We think of you all lots. But we don't want to come back yet!
We went for a bushwalk, a truly natural on, this a.m. Beautiful plantlife, lots of incredible birdsong, though we only managed to see a few as the bush is so thick - cape pigeons , weta (bush hens) and bellbirds. The trail led to the pub, handily, and it was as good as the campsite.
then sadly it was time to move on, and we drove following thwe ice-blue river down to the coast. Jen with bad hayfever - great time to find I'm allergic to NZ pollen. We passed a lake where the picnic benches were half-submerged, looked like an English summer! We've been so lucky, they had an atrocious storm last weekend here, people are saying the worst they've ever seen Roads were washed away, a lot of damage done. But the sun's still hot for us!
We stopped off at Franz Josef and walked up to look at the glacier there - awesome, and an evil-looking grey river flowing from it. Then on to here - Fox - another lovely campsite, on the slopes of Mount Cook. It has its head in the clouds, but the forcast's good again for tomorrow when we're booked to do the helicopter flight landing on the glacier.
love to all of you following, it's great to see so many people taking an interest. We think of you all lots. But we don't want to come back yet!
Thursday 26th November
We left Kaikoura earlty this morning and headed for Christchurch. We are still surprised at the difference between North and South Islands, though everyone warned us. South is generally much wilder, where North is mostly cultivated. South has mostly sheepfarming (lots of little lambs around today.) But the plains around Christchurch are very fertile. Christchurch itself is a lovely town, some beautiful old (or old-looking) buildings. We puffed our way to the top of the cathedral tower and went on the old tram which does a town-centre circuit. We really loved it and want to go back and become tramdrivers. We also drove through Hagley Park, named after Hagley Hall and funded by the Lyttletons.
Then we headed for Artur's Pass, only an hour or so away but like a different universe. As we began to climb into the high mountains, we stopped at Castle Hill - should have been a setting for Lord of the Rings, though it wasn't. Enormous limstone outcrops, in weird shapes, with a blackbird sitting on the top of the highest singing his heart out. One of my (Jen's) favourite places so far. Then Geoff had to employ all his rally-driving skills as we wove up and down massive passes, dropping into huge braided river-valleys full of golden broom and blue lupins. Finally we reached Arthur's Pass and stopped at a lookout where 2 of those naughty keas were waiting to strip the rubber off cars - we dissuaded them They are beautiful birds but with a very naughty glint in their eyes. Finally we arrived at our campsite, Jackson's Retreat - miles from anywhere (in the wop-wpops) but must be the best almost anywhere - or so all the visitors' comments in the feedback book say. Even the worms are looked after! The compost goes to a wormery. It's unbelievably eco-friendly (go for a walk, for instance, and scatter native plant seeds.) So Jen is in paradise. Add sumtuous views of snowcapped peaks and extreme comfort provided -it's perfect.
Then we headed for Artur's Pass, only an hour or so away but like a different universe. As we began to climb into the high mountains, we stopped at Castle Hill - should have been a setting for Lord of the Rings, though it wasn't. Enormous limstone outcrops, in weird shapes, with a blackbird sitting on the top of the highest singing his heart out. One of my (Jen's) favourite places so far. Then Geoff had to employ all his rally-driving skills as we wove up and down massive passes, dropping into huge braided river-valleys full of golden broom and blue lupins. Finally we reached Arthur's Pass and stopped at a lookout where 2 of those naughty keas were waiting to strip the rubber off cars - we dissuaded them They are beautiful birds but with a very naughty glint in their eyes. Finally we arrived at our campsite, Jackson's Retreat - miles from anywhere (in the wop-wpops) but must be the best almost anywhere - or so all the visitors' comments in the feedback book say. Even the worms are looked after! The compost goes to a wormery. It's unbelievably eco-friendly (go for a walk, for instance, and scatter native plant seeds.) So Jen is in paradise. Add sumtuous views of snowcapped peaks and extreme comfort provided -it's perfect.
Wednesday, 26 November 2008
Wed 26th Nov Take 2
Tue 25th Nov.
It was still blowing strongly this morning but the sun was breaking through and the ferry to South Island left on time (ish). The crossing was very choppy but superb with great coastal scenery and crashing waves. At south Island we sailed into a very narrow sound which was a cross between a fiord and and a cornish estuary absolutely beautiful. When we arrived in Picton we went to a maritime museum where they have preserved a sailing boat from 1853. This was brilliant, the boat had been in the Crimean war, transported tea, convicts and emigrants before becoming a refrigeration ship for meat.
We then drove south to Kaikoura. On the way we drove through incredible wine growing country in an area so hot and dry they were irrigating despite the storm of the past couple of days. in Blenheim we dropped off the postcard from post office bay in the Galapagos to a lady living there. We also drove past the turn off to Molesworth Station where our friends the Phoenixes have visited and even been to a wedding there. It seems to cover half of New Zealand, it has its own snow capped mountains and the road out of it to the south was declared closed on the road signs.
The run down the coast to Kaikoura was beautiful, the Pacific on one side, snow capped mountains on the other and irrigation sprays on the fields, oh and fur seals on the coast.
Wed 26 th Nov.
Spent the morning getting a little rest doing domestics and booking a few things ahead. Then came the afternoon. Whale watching. The boat was advertised as a high seasickness risk but we have already survived Galapagos. So we settled down to enjoy a 25 knot slap and crash across a huge swell in a very powerful catamaran. The set up was excellent , first they caught up with a dozing Sperm Whale on the surface which we watched for quite a time. then we chased another who was wide awake and dived as soon as we got close. They then stopped the boat and listened and located another one coming up from a deep dive. They slowly manouvered the boat until we were right over where they expexted him to come up. After about 10 mins boy did he come up . He broke the surface and cleared the water before falling back an astonishing sight . He then took a few breaths before diving with a flick of his tail - incredible! All this and Wandering Albatross too. Never a dull moment in 4 weeks on the road.
It was still blowing strongly this morning but the sun was breaking through and the ferry to South Island left on time (ish). The crossing was very choppy but superb with great coastal scenery and crashing waves. At south Island we sailed into a very narrow sound which was a cross between a fiord and and a cornish estuary absolutely beautiful. When we arrived in Picton we went to a maritime museum where they have preserved a sailing boat from 1853. This was brilliant, the boat had been in the Crimean war, transported tea, convicts and emigrants before becoming a refrigeration ship for meat.
We then drove south to Kaikoura. On the way we drove through incredible wine growing country in an area so hot and dry they were irrigating despite the storm of the past couple of days. in Blenheim we dropped off the postcard from post office bay in the Galapagos to a lady living there. We also drove past the turn off to Molesworth Station where our friends the Phoenixes have visited and even been to a wedding there. It seems to cover half of New Zealand, it has its own snow capped mountains and the road out of it to the south was declared closed on the road signs.
The run down the coast to Kaikoura was beautiful, the Pacific on one side, snow capped mountains on the other and irrigation sprays on the fields, oh and fur seals on the coast.
Wed 26 th Nov.
Spent the morning getting a little rest doing domestics and booking a few things ahead. Then came the afternoon. Whale watching. The boat was advertised as a high seasickness risk but we have already survived Galapagos. So we settled down to enjoy a 25 knot slap and crash across a huge swell in a very powerful catamaran. The set up was excellent , first they caught up with a dozing Sperm Whale on the surface which we watched for quite a time. then we chased another who was wide awake and dived as soon as we got close. They then stopped the boat and listened and located another one coming up from a deep dive. They slowly manouvered the boat until we were right over where they expexted him to come up. After about 10 mins boy did he come up . He broke the surface and cleared the water before falling back an astonishing sight . He then took a few breaths before diving with a flick of his tail - incredible! All this and Wandering Albatross too. Never a dull moment in 4 weeks on the road.
Wednesday 26th November
We've remembered something from the South American leg that we need to relate. We sampled that fine Peruvian cuisine Alpaca and guinea pig. We were so impressed that we have ordered a delivery to the parents for Christmas dinner.
Computer problems dictate that I must recommence blogging later
Computer problems dictate that I must recommence blogging later
Sunday, 23 November 2008
Monday 24th Nov
Sat 21st Nov.
Woke up in "Pong City" and went in search of the smell. The sulphur in the air is really strong. In the south of the city very strong! Here we went to Te puia, an active valley. There were hot bubbling mud pools with mud volcanos and the geyser Pohutu which erupted almost continuously while we were there throwing water up 10 to 20 metres. The mud pools are really eerie! We then went to the Buried village up in the hills to the south. There are many lovely lakes up here and this very well set out and poignant site where a village frequented by Victorian tourists was destroyed in an eruption in1886. It was very tranquil with the homes of Maori and the hotels dug out of 2 metres of ash and mud and well displayed. The Volcano still broods over the lake which it boiled and threw the mud down over the village.
In the evening we went to the night opening of a wildlife centre which was very bright and colourful and had a wonderful nocturnal house of the endangered Kiwi which are very shy but quite fascinating they are very retiring but one grew quite sociable and almost pecked
Jennifers hand. Here they also breed trout the size of small whales but apparently do not put them on menus? They are protected and can only be caught as game with a licence.
Sunday 23rd Nov.
Woke up and found we were very lucky as 7 cars and tents had been raided overnight on our site. They burned their way into the tents with a heat gun as people slept. We drove south to lake Taupo the site of a volcanic eruption bigger than Krakatoa by several times which has created the Caldera which has the biggest lake in NZ. We then went into the Tongarriro Park. This is the site of several 10,000 foot volcanos that are snow capped and still very much active. When we went for a walk we carried a card showing safe areas and the route of Lahars (mud Flows) in recent eruptions. One mountain is a classic cone shape and was the Mt. Doom in Lord of the Rings. The next Mt Ruapahu is a ski resort but also doubles as "Mordor" We drove up here in the evening and red sunlit snow with back rugged lava is Tolkienesque indeed.
Monday 24th Nov
Little to report today drove over 6 hours to reach Wellington for the boat to South Island tomorrow. The moutains from last night had changed character. Wreathed in strange cloud forms and with a howling cold gale pouring down the east side which blew us all over the road as we drove away. Strolling round a windy and wet Wellington tonight so we've dropped in here to blog.
Woke up in "Pong City" and went in search of the smell. The sulphur in the air is really strong. In the south of the city very strong! Here we went to Te puia, an active valley. There were hot bubbling mud pools with mud volcanos and the geyser Pohutu which erupted almost continuously while we were there throwing water up 10 to 20 metres. The mud pools are really eerie! We then went to the Buried village up in the hills to the south. There are many lovely lakes up here and this very well set out and poignant site where a village frequented by Victorian tourists was destroyed in an eruption in1886. It was very tranquil with the homes of Maori and the hotels dug out of 2 metres of ash and mud and well displayed. The Volcano still broods over the lake which it boiled and threw the mud down over the village.
In the evening we went to the night opening of a wildlife centre which was very bright and colourful and had a wonderful nocturnal house of the endangered Kiwi which are very shy but quite fascinating they are very retiring but one grew quite sociable and almost pecked
Jennifers hand. Here they also breed trout the size of small whales but apparently do not put them on menus? They are protected and can only be caught as game with a licence.
Sunday 23rd Nov.
Woke up and found we were very lucky as 7 cars and tents had been raided overnight on our site. They burned their way into the tents with a heat gun as people slept. We drove south to lake Taupo the site of a volcanic eruption bigger than Krakatoa by several times which has created the Caldera which has the biggest lake in NZ. We then went into the Tongarriro Park. This is the site of several 10,000 foot volcanos that are snow capped and still very much active. When we went for a walk we carried a card showing safe areas and the route of Lahars (mud Flows) in recent eruptions. One mountain is a classic cone shape and was the Mt. Doom in Lord of the Rings. The next Mt Ruapahu is a ski resort but also doubles as "Mordor" We drove up here in the evening and red sunlit snow with back rugged lava is Tolkienesque indeed.
Monday 24th Nov
Little to report today drove over 6 hours to reach Wellington for the boat to South Island tomorrow. The moutains from last night had changed character. Wreathed in strange cloud forms and with a howling cold gale pouring down the east side which blew us all over the road as we drove away. Strolling round a windy and wet Wellington tonight so we've dropped in here to blog.
Friday, 21 November 2008
Friday 21st November
Well, a couple of hours after we were last in touch, we were in an accident! No major harm to anybody, in fact no injury, but we now have a badly buckled back step to the van after a woman ran into us in a traffic queue - luckily at very low speed. But caused us a headache as, being just north of Auckland, the company wanted us to go back to the depot in SW Auckland to do the paperwork - which meant driving across the city and then eventually driving out through rush-hour, which was no more fun than rush hour in any big city. However, perhaps did us a favour as we ended up for the night on a beautiful site we might not have found otherwise, up in the hills above a brown coal mining area. Waingaro is a hot springs area, in the hills near Hobbiton from Lord of the Rings, so you can imagine the countryside. (Just like the Lickey Hills.) There were several beautifully warm pools(about 30 degrees), and we swam last night as the stars were coming out, and then again this morning as the maggies sang. Drove through amazing countryside then to Waitomo where the glow-worm caves are, another gorgeous area. We first went on the glow-worm tour, walking through limestone caves 30 million years old then riding a boat below thousands of twinkling glow-worms - a creature of fairly unpleasant habits but a beautiful experience. Like the Southern Hemisphere skies at night. We then toured another cave system, Ruarikiri. This started with an artificial entrance as the Maori have declared the original entrance a religious site, so they spent millions on a 60 metre spiral walkway and artificial tunnels to enter the system. The watercut channels were fantastic incredibley deep and narrow with very pale dripstone curtains as well as the usual stalactites and stalagmites. The gloworms here were reflected in the water in the bottom of the channels, heaven above and below. A quite stunning 2 hours finishing with seeing the bones of the extinct flightless Moai bird which stood 3.5 metres high a lot to get into your McChicken sandwich.
We then drove to Rotorua and selected a lakeside campsite. The lake has waves like the sea and is huge. The beach is made from ash and pumice and if you dig in the sand the water fills the hole and is then the temperature of a warm bath because the sands are hot. Within 50 metres of our camp pitch there is a hot pool steaming sulphur and a 6 foot bubbling mass of boiling mud. Fenced off of course. You can bathe in a choice of three free hot tubs and even practice cooking in the hot sands and mud. It's he weirdest city - steam drifting everwhere, and very smelly! So much to do here, on every known form of transport - we don't know where to start tomorrow. (Assuming there's no eruption...)
Just to give a general idea of NZ countryside up here in the north - imagine England in May, buttercups and daisies , blackbirds and thrushes singing - but with mad honeyeaters in sub-tropical vegetation above, and even more peculiar flightless birds, pukekos, rather like huge moorhens, falling over their own feet. Dairy cattle everywhere, up in the north the landscape a mixture of Scottish farmland and Victoria, down here the mountains are higher and volcanic cones scattered around. Weather like May too, can be very warm but also cold and blustery - and hay-fever-inducing!
We then drove to Rotorua and selected a lakeside campsite. The lake has waves like the sea and is huge. The beach is made from ash and pumice and if you dig in the sand the water fills the hole and is then the temperature of a warm bath because the sands are hot. Within 50 metres of our camp pitch there is a hot pool steaming sulphur and a 6 foot bubbling mass of boiling mud. Fenced off of course. You can bathe in a choice of three free hot tubs and even practice cooking in the hot sands and mud. It's he weirdest city - steam drifting everwhere, and very smelly! So much to do here, on every known form of transport - we don't know where to start tomorrow. (Assuming there's no eruption...)
Just to give a general idea of NZ countryside up here in the north - imagine England in May, buttercups and daisies , blackbirds and thrushes singing - but with mad honeyeaters in sub-tropical vegetation above, and even more peculiar flightless birds, pukekos, rather like huge moorhens, falling over their own feet. Dairy cattle everywhere, up in the north the landscape a mixture of Scottish farmland and Victoria, down here the mountains are higher and volcanic cones scattered around. Weather like May too, can be very warm but also cold and blustery - and hay-fever-inducing!
Wednesday, 19 November 2008
Thursday 20th November
Hi everyone. Sorry so long since we kept this up, we've been pretty much on the move and found internet access hard at times, so we'll just do a quick summary of the last week.
Tues 11th November
Macchu Pichu!! And everything you've heard is true. The setting is just indescribably beautiful. As for the site ...take the roofs off a Cotswold village, say Stow-on-the Wold, then surround it by 16,000 feet mountains, and you might get an idea. We saw chinchillas there too. It was a hard day, but the train journey was quite an experience, starting at 6am with zigzags up out of Cusco, then across the altiplano as all the villages were beginning the day, down through incredibly narrow gorges to the jungle. Nearly died on the bustrip up to Machu...well felt like it. Not for the fainthearted! The trip back not so much fun, largely in the dark, but enlivened by a fashion show put on by the carriage crew showing "quality alpaca products", most bizarre!
Wed 12th November
Shopping in Cusco and a last look around before we had to say goodbye, it was hard to leave. We flew to Lima then straight on to Santiago, arriving there just before midnight. Rebecca, think Hotel Moskva for our hotel! Very 70's. Our first impression of Santiago was like Birmingham - very messy, first litter we'd seen in S. America. Turned out they'd had a public service strike and rubbish hadn't been collected for a while. Next day they were clearing up and it was tidy again. (Bet Birmingham isn't)
Thursday 13th November
Big recommendation for anyone going to Chile - A) do - it's beautiful, b)if you only have one day go on a private tour with John Gottlieb. He is big mates with the head of the Cilean army so you should be safe!! Chile is more western-feeling that Peru & Ecuador. We had a greatr trip to Valparaiso, gorgeous town, plus wine-tasting and a few other side-trips as well. John insisted on taking us to the airport and took us up to see the sunset over Santiago first, it's a stunning city. He then got us priority boarding on the plane so we were first on! It was goodbye to the Andes then, they had been with us all the way for the last week and ...well, you just have to see them for yourselves. Hard to imagine anywhere more beautiful.
Friday 14th November
Nothing happened! We didn't get this day!!
Saturday 15th November
Arrived 4am in NZ after a typically awful night flight. (LAN a very good airline, just being in the dark for nearly 10 hours was vile.) Met by Sarah, who in 1981 was Sarah Lloyd and in my class in St Anne's. And thank goodness she was, she's grwon up to be a lovely wife and mum - as well as doing a compicated admin job in a primary school in Northshore Auckland). She and her husband Mike & daughter Catherine gave us a great weekend, variously providing travel, hotel, laundry, computer and anti- jetlag services, as well as answering an endless stream of questions.
One jetlag cure is apparently helping to move neighbours into their new house. We worked all morning shifting furniture in return for beer and bacon and egg pie It was great fun and What A house!! Then onto long beach and the busmans holiday visiting Sarah's school where Some staff also work on Saturdays doing reports!!
Sunday 16th Nov
Touring Auckland. Takepuna market, Devonport, wonderful harbour views. The spot where nothing happened in 1897 which is commemorated by a plaque. Lunch in a fine pub then the ferry to Auckland harbour to look at the amazing millionaires yachts.
Monday 17th Nov.
Pick up our camper, Sarah driving us back all the way to the airport. We then drove north in dull weather along a road with more roadworks than Kidderminster, but we reached Paihia which is beautiful and a great compensation. Like West coast scotland or Cornwall but usually warmer.
Stunning beachside campsite.
Tuesday 18th.
The thrill of NZ so far. Off at 7:00am in a 4wd coach to the northern tip of NZ. Morning coffee was taken in a place carving 50,000 year old trees into beautiful stuff. Thank heavens we could not carry it home let alone afford it. A $32,000 Mandoline!! Next came 90 mile beach. Driven at at 110 KPH by our "keen" coach diver who also sang Moari songs and laments. The other coach gave up as the tide was rising early driven by a storm the previous night, But not our man! this is despite the fact that few on the coach were under 60. We ploughed through the surf passing the last escape point until we turned and drove up a river bed at the end of the beach. We then stopped to sandboard down some huge 100ft. plus dunes (including the oldies). Exhilarating!!
We then drove to Cape Reinga and watched where the Pacific meets the Tasman sea with no Eastern landfall for 13,000 miles. Just for an encore we then went to one of the oldest forests in NZ at Puketi to walk aroung the boardwalk built for the Queen which she refused to use. This forest is of Kauri trees (the same as the ones at the morning stop but younger) , and they are massive.
Wednesday 19th Nov.
A glorious morning and off on a high speed catamaran to watch dolphins. And we did. Two pods that swam all around us. We also passed the boat through a natural rock arch barely wider than the boat. In the afternoon after lunch in the oldest colonial pub in NZ, in the town of Russell we visited the Waitangi Treaty grounds where the Maori signed a treaty with the British in 1840, a very beautiful place.
Feeling tired now heading off south of Auckland. Rotorua to morrow.
Tues 11th November
Macchu Pichu!! And everything you've heard is true. The setting is just indescribably beautiful. As for the site ...take the roofs off a Cotswold village, say Stow-on-the Wold, then surround it by 16,000 feet mountains, and you might get an idea. We saw chinchillas there too. It was a hard day, but the train journey was quite an experience, starting at 6am with zigzags up out of Cusco, then across the altiplano as all the villages were beginning the day, down through incredibly narrow gorges to the jungle. Nearly died on the bustrip up to Machu...well felt like it. Not for the fainthearted! The trip back not so much fun, largely in the dark, but enlivened by a fashion show put on by the carriage crew showing "quality alpaca products", most bizarre!
Wed 12th November
Shopping in Cusco and a last look around before we had to say goodbye, it was hard to leave. We flew to Lima then straight on to Santiago, arriving there just before midnight. Rebecca, think Hotel Moskva for our hotel! Very 70's. Our first impression of Santiago was like Birmingham - very messy, first litter we'd seen in S. America. Turned out they'd had a public service strike and rubbish hadn't been collected for a while. Next day they were clearing up and it was tidy again. (Bet Birmingham isn't)
Thursday 13th November
Big recommendation for anyone going to Chile - A) do - it's beautiful, b)if you only have one day go on a private tour with John Gottlieb. He is big mates with the head of the Cilean army so you should be safe!! Chile is more western-feeling that Peru & Ecuador. We had a greatr trip to Valparaiso, gorgeous town, plus wine-tasting and a few other side-trips as well. John insisted on taking us to the airport and took us up to see the sunset over Santiago first, it's a stunning city. He then got us priority boarding on the plane so we were first on! It was goodbye to the Andes then, they had been with us all the way for the last week and ...well, you just have to see them for yourselves. Hard to imagine anywhere more beautiful.
Friday 14th November
Nothing happened! We didn't get this day!!
Saturday 15th November
Arrived 4am in NZ after a typically awful night flight. (LAN a very good airline, just being in the dark for nearly 10 hours was vile.) Met by Sarah, who in 1981 was Sarah Lloyd and in my class in St Anne's. And thank goodness she was, she's grwon up to be a lovely wife and mum - as well as doing a compicated admin job in a primary school in Northshore Auckland). She and her husband Mike & daughter Catherine gave us a great weekend, variously providing travel, hotel, laundry, computer and anti- jetlag services, as well as answering an endless stream of questions.
One jetlag cure is apparently helping to move neighbours into their new house. We worked all morning shifting furniture in return for beer and bacon and egg pie It was great fun and What A house!! Then onto long beach and the busmans holiday visiting Sarah's school where Some staff also work on Saturdays doing reports!!
Sunday 16th Nov
Touring Auckland. Takepuna market, Devonport, wonderful harbour views. The spot where nothing happened in 1897 which is commemorated by a plaque. Lunch in a fine pub then the ferry to Auckland harbour to look at the amazing millionaires yachts.
Monday 17th Nov.
Pick up our camper, Sarah driving us back all the way to the airport. We then drove north in dull weather along a road with more roadworks than Kidderminster, but we reached Paihia which is beautiful and a great compensation. Like West coast scotland or Cornwall but usually warmer.
Stunning beachside campsite.
Tuesday 18th.
The thrill of NZ so far. Off at 7:00am in a 4wd coach to the northern tip of NZ. Morning coffee was taken in a place carving 50,000 year old trees into beautiful stuff. Thank heavens we could not carry it home let alone afford it. A $32,000 Mandoline!! Next came 90 mile beach. Driven at at 110 KPH by our "keen" coach diver who also sang Moari songs and laments. The other coach gave up as the tide was rising early driven by a storm the previous night, But not our man! this is despite the fact that few on the coach were under 60. We ploughed through the surf passing the last escape point until we turned and drove up a river bed at the end of the beach. We then stopped to sandboard down some huge 100ft. plus dunes (including the oldies). Exhilarating!!
We then drove to Cape Reinga and watched where the Pacific meets the Tasman sea with no Eastern landfall for 13,000 miles. Just for an encore we then went to one of the oldest forests in NZ at Puketi to walk aroung the boardwalk built for the Queen which she refused to use. This forest is of Kauri trees (the same as the ones at the morning stop but younger) , and they are massive.
Wednesday 19th Nov.
A glorious morning and off on a high speed catamaran to watch dolphins. And we did. Two pods that swam all around us. We also passed the boat through a natural rock arch barely wider than the boat. In the afternoon after lunch in the oldest colonial pub in NZ, in the town of Russell we visited the Waitangi Treaty grounds where the Maori signed a treaty with the British in 1840, a very beautiful place.
Feeling tired now heading off south of Auckland. Rotorua to morrow.
Monday, 10 November 2008
Mon 10th Nov
Sun Nov 9th
A long and very hot day exploring The Sacred Valley. This is the route to Machu Pichu North of Cusco. We were driven by a Peruvian Lewis Hamilton around precipitous mountain roads. We saw a wonderful local trading market in the town of Pisaq with incredible fruit and veg.drove on along a narrow valley in the mountains very desert like with snow peaks peering over the top.
Nice lunch, shared with Alaskans, nobody mentioned Sarah Palin.
Ollantaytambo, a place to go with its name. A huge Inca monument exhausting to climb in the thin air, but worth it for tremendous views and Inca history.
Drove back over the "Altiplano" High plains with red earth and a backdrop of snow peaks again. Very fertile land at 3,500 metres, every inch cultivated and ploughed by oxen. Spectacularly beautiful. "Lewis" got us back safely just! Geoff flaked out for 12 hours.
Mon Nov.10th
Got up late and strolled around Cusco. Watched teenagers practising a traditional dance in a town square. Visited a fascinating museum dedicated to teaching art in the remote indian communities and helping to preserve Andean culture quite brilliant!
Hot sunny morning then torrential rain.
We went on a city tour in the afternoon. Saw the Cathedral, churches and several Inca temples on a typical welsh afternoon. The key sight was SAQSAYWAMAN. Geoff had his photo taken with her and Jen was a magnet for local young men who wanted their photograph taken with her. Jen asumes they thought she was the ancient spirit of the mountains.
Up at 4:30 am tomorrow for Machu Pichu.
A long and very hot day exploring The Sacred Valley. This is the route to Machu Pichu North of Cusco. We were driven by a Peruvian Lewis Hamilton around precipitous mountain roads. We saw a wonderful local trading market in the town of Pisaq with incredible fruit and veg.drove on along a narrow valley in the mountains very desert like with snow peaks peering over the top.
Nice lunch, shared with Alaskans, nobody mentioned Sarah Palin.
Ollantaytambo, a place to go with its name. A huge Inca monument exhausting to climb in the thin air, but worth it for tremendous views and Inca history.
Drove back over the "Altiplano" High plains with red earth and a backdrop of snow peaks again. Very fertile land at 3,500 metres, every inch cultivated and ploughed by oxen. Spectacularly beautiful. "Lewis" got us back safely just! Geoff flaked out for 12 hours.
Mon Nov.10th
Got up late and strolled around Cusco. Watched teenagers practising a traditional dance in a town square. Visited a fascinating museum dedicated to teaching art in the remote indian communities and helping to preserve Andean culture quite brilliant!
Hot sunny morning then torrential rain.
We went on a city tour in the afternoon. Saw the Cathedral, churches and several Inca temples on a typical welsh afternoon. The key sight was SAQSAYWAMAN. Geoff had his photo taken with her and Jen was a magnet for local young men who wanted their photograph taken with her. Jen asumes they thought she was the ancient spirit of the mountains.
Up at 4:30 am tomorrow for Machu Pichu.
Saturday, 8 November 2008
Saturday 8th November
The sun has just gone down over the Andes in Peru, but back to Quito 2 days ago.
Thursday 6th November.
In glorious equatorial sunshine we did a city tour with our excellent guide Gloria, who gave us a very clear picture of Ecuador,s stormy political and economic history as well as showing us the stunning views and the old town -very beautiful and well-preserved. Rebecca, we saw what you meant about the "edge" in Quito though we didn,t have any problems, but armed guards for all the big shops, banks and hotels, even our own small B&B and Burger King! But most of the people we met over 2 days were very friendly and helpful.
In the afternoon we went up the telerifico to the Ruca Pinchincha Volcano at 4100 metres. 13,500 feet. The views were glorious. 4 or 5 snow peaks including Cotopaxi could be seen. We saw a condor flying . We even coped with the altitude but chests were tight going uphill. The sun apparently was at dangerous UV levels and Geoff got burned.
Nov 7th
Caught the bus to Mitad del Mundo. The bus was a real experience of ecuadorian life. Wild and crowded with street vendors jumping on and off selling things. We travellled some 10 or more miles and about an hour for 40 cents each insted of $40 for a taxi. Wild driving and wild music all the way. At M del M there are three equator museums each with a different version of the equator. One archaelogical, one done in the 17th century, and one by GPS. One had a series of crazy experiments about coriolis force . Very clever but dodgy science. Jennifer danced with an indian medicine man!!!! . Geoff tried to shoot her with a blow pipe, such fun!
We were drenched by a Thunderstorm on the way back walking through the city. Next we were on the 9:00pm plane to Lima Peru. Lima was a mad light show at Midnight with flashy bars and clubs and shopping centres but with very dark poor streets behind.
Nov 8th
After just 7 hour in the hotel we were driven back to the airport through a very different looking town with lots of battered painted mini-buses shuttling all over the place as the city woke up.
On the flight to Cusco we sat with happy americans celebrating the end of George Bush. and with stunning views of the snow capped Andes.
We spent the afternoon wandering around Cusco. we cannot compare this with anywhere else we have ever been. Grindingly poor suburbs and a beautiful town of grand squares and churches with the Andes at the end of every street. unfortunately there is a street seller every other step.
For the parents, Alpaca related products are everywhere even on the restaurant menus however we can only have chicken soup tonight because we must eat lightly to adapt to the 11,000 ft. altitude. Off to The Sacred Valley tomorrow.
Thursday 6th November.
In glorious equatorial sunshine we did a city tour with our excellent guide Gloria, who gave us a very clear picture of Ecuador,s stormy political and economic history as well as showing us the stunning views and the old town -very beautiful and well-preserved. Rebecca, we saw what you meant about the "edge" in Quito though we didn,t have any problems, but armed guards for all the big shops, banks and hotels, even our own small B&B and Burger King! But most of the people we met over 2 days were very friendly and helpful.
In the afternoon we went up the telerifico to the Ruca Pinchincha Volcano at 4100 metres. 13,500 feet. The views were glorious. 4 or 5 snow peaks including Cotopaxi could be seen. We saw a condor flying . We even coped with the altitude but chests were tight going uphill. The sun apparently was at dangerous UV levels and Geoff got burned.
Nov 7th
Caught the bus to Mitad del Mundo. The bus was a real experience of ecuadorian life. Wild and crowded with street vendors jumping on and off selling things. We travellled some 10 or more miles and about an hour for 40 cents each insted of $40 for a taxi. Wild driving and wild music all the way. At M del M there are three equator museums each with a different version of the equator. One archaelogical, one done in the 17th century, and one by GPS. One had a series of crazy experiments about coriolis force . Very clever but dodgy science. Jennifer danced with an indian medicine man!!!! . Geoff tried to shoot her with a blow pipe, such fun!
We were drenched by a Thunderstorm on the way back walking through the city. Next we were on the 9:00pm plane to Lima Peru. Lima was a mad light show at Midnight with flashy bars and clubs and shopping centres but with very dark poor streets behind.
Nov 8th
After just 7 hour in the hotel we were driven back to the airport through a very different looking town with lots of battered painted mini-buses shuttling all over the place as the city woke up.
On the flight to Cusco we sat with happy americans celebrating the end of George Bush. and with stunning views of the snow capped Andes.
We spent the afternoon wandering around Cusco. we cannot compare this with anywhere else we have ever been. Grindingly poor suburbs and a beautiful town of grand squares and churches with the Andes at the end of every street. unfortunately there is a street seller every other step.
For the parents, Alpaca related products are everywhere even on the restaurant menus however we can only have chicken soup tonight because we must eat lightly to adapt to the 11,000 ft. altitude. Off to The Sacred Valley tomorrow.
Thursday, 6 November 2008
Thursday 6th November
At last! Sorry no posts for so long, but we've been out of contact with computers since we left England. In fact we went for 5 days without even seeing a building of any kind! We had a magnificent trip to Galapagos, a place where you have to watch your step or you´re in grave danger of squashing a sealion, eradicating an iguana, battering a booby, or having an accident with an albatross chick...though we got nowhere near flattening a flamingo.
A brief catchup on the trip so far:
Tues Oct 28th
We spent all day flying to Quito in Ecuador, 14 and a half hours in the air, landing late at night in a storm to a huge round of applause for the pilot from the passengers...
Wed Oct 29th
Up at 5.30, to the airport at 6am for the flight to Galapagos. We met our boat, The Cachalote on a quay covered with sleeping sealions. Our boat was about 100ft. long about the size of Darwins Beagle but with motors as well as sails. We had a brilliant crew of Ecuadorians and passengers from Sweden,U.S.A., Canada, Germany, Czech Republic, and Kent, 12 in all. Sailled to our first Island South Plaza,and met seals and Iguanas face to face! LITERALLY. You have to learn to stepover the wild life. We then moored in Puerto Ayora on the main island Santa Cruz
Thur Oct. 30th
Spent this day on the island at the "Darwin" centre. We saw Breeding programs for the endangered Tortoise, this is too complex to explain but fantastic. We then went to the hills to see "Wild" Giant tortoise. The hills were like Wales on a drizzly August day but with Volcanic craters and Giant tortoise. That night we sailed for 10 hours in a pitching and rolling boat over the open Pacific Ocean. ROUGH!!!
Fri Oct 31st
Few people spoke at breakfast! B´fast 7:00 ashore by 8:00 in a small Zodiac boat called a "Panga" Island of Espinoza. A wet Landing!! Jumping onto the beach from the panga in high surf. Sea lions, Lava Lizards, Mocking birds and then a swim (cool, N. Wales again) from the white coral beach.
Lunch on board and then a dry landing we liked these but this one hsd the boat outrunning 6 to 10 foot surf to get into the landing, tricky!! Great sea-bird life. Nazca Booby, Blue -Footed Booby (Doing their mating dance, it might catch on) and Albatross, chicks and magnificently flying adults. We also saw a Rare Galapagos Hawk and a 25 metre blowhole. Jen enjoyed the next bit as we sailed again, using sails to stabalize us.
Sat 1st Nov.
8:00 am wet landing on Floreana. Perfect volcanic island with many old cones. Large flamingo lagoons with Greater Flamingos. Walked on to a coral beach with landing and launching Turtles and Stingrays in the surf. Many Turtle egg nests.
Another excellent lunch on board our chef was a genius meals several courses on time whatever the boat was doing. thes were served in style by a balletic waiter called Enrique. next a "Wet" landing in Post Office bay aplace of sailing ledgend where you leve postcards hopefully for later callers to deliver. We picked up 4 to deliver, one in Northfield Birmingham. Swam warm and comfortable until strong surf threw us back onto the beach. Sailed into a brilliant sunset but dinner needed Enriques balletic skills and our catching ability and sleep at 1:30 am when we anchored was welcome.
Sun 2nd Nov
We are now in the far west, the island of Isabella. BREATHTAKING. Huge gently sloping volcanos and blue skies. Only 2 tour boats left by now, us and a three masted schooner, others wimped out and returned to tamer waters. Dry Lava landing and a walk over a vast lava field only 100 years old. Interesting rock pools- Shark, Turtle, Porcupine fish as well as the pretty ones. Pools further inland linked to the sea by lava tunnels were brakish and had Flamingos, Stilts, Moorhens, Grebes and the rara Galapagos Martin. All surrounded by masses of black lava under a hot sun. Fantastic!
Lunch Fantastic also! Afternoon was a Panga ride in a Mangrove Swamp. Saw Pelicans diving, Flightless cormorants and Galapagos penguins on the rocks on the way in, Herons, swimming Penguins, Turtles and sealions (some sleeping in trees!!!) in the swamps. Rocky ride back in the Pangas. A night at anchor, for which we were all greatfull.
Mon 3rd Nov
Up anchor 5:30am. sailed to Urvina Bay. Wet landing walk through a dried mangrove lagoon. Dried because an earthquke raised it 16 feet in one night. Gient tortoise and large land iguanas. Superb warm swim on the beach at about 9:00am. Wonderful rock pools with bright coloured Moray eel.
Sailing for lunch to the island of Fernandina, throught the Bolivar Channel We sighted our second whale and later that day we saw more. Probably Brydes Whale but possibly Finback.
A dry landing on the youngest volcanic island. We saw vast numbers of marine iguanas and much again of the widlife previously seen. Most interesting was a "Beachmaster" male sealion who was guarding 4 cubs playing in the water. He was asleep on the job which brought comment but as soon as another young male sealion swam up the back he snapped into action and chased him ferociously and fast back to sea.
Evening saw us chasing whales and sailing past vast collapsed volcano cones into another glorious sunset, all on deck with beer and luxurious "nibbles". As the sun gave way to a brilliant starlit night and as the GPS recorder approached and reached zero degrees of Latitude we all drank Enriques cocktails with the Captain on the Bridgeto celebrate crosing the Equator.
We paid for this beauty with another rough passge south after dinner.
Tues 4th Nov
San Salvador island. James Bay. 7:15 Wet landing Walk to the Grottoes of the Fur Seals. These have much sillier ears than sealions and huge eyes for night fishing. Plenty of the usual wild life waders, iguanas, sealions.
Sailed at 11:00. The boat as usual was escorted by a squadron of the beautiful Frigate birds. Unfortunately this time their aim was good and Geoff was well and truly "pooped".
Afternoon saw us at Batolome Island. This is a stunning blasted volcanic Moonscape used inscenes from the movie Master and Commander. We took a panga ride to look at penguins, and watch blue-footed Boobies dive bombing people snorkling. It is possible that we made only the second ever sighting of a Green Heron in Galapagos, Monika our guide need to check with our pictures with the Darwin Foundation.
We then landed and climbed to the top of the island to see this sensational land of volcanic spatter cones and lava flows as the sun started setting.
We sailed for Santa Cruz having a cocktail farewaell dinner and anchored at 8:00.Phew!
Wed 5th Nov.
Panga ride BEFORE breakfast.6:00am. Mangrove swamp with all the usual birds but, baby sharks simming all around our panga in the lagoon and massive Spotted Manta Rays rising from the mud right next to us. It was nice. We´ve runout of superlatives . This made a magical ending to our cruise. By 9:00 we were onshore and off to the airport after saying very fond farewells to our crew and our brilliant guide Monika. All of us passengers had gelled well and we were all sorry to be going our separate ways. If any of you "shipmates read this when you are back home thanks for making it a great trip.
We are now in Quito with more amazing thing to report but we are all blogged out and must now pack. Peru tomorrow night. Will try to upload pictures when we get a faster computer.
A brief catchup on the trip so far:
Tues Oct 28th
We spent all day flying to Quito in Ecuador, 14 and a half hours in the air, landing late at night in a storm to a huge round of applause for the pilot from the passengers...
Wed Oct 29th
Up at 5.30, to the airport at 6am for the flight to Galapagos. We met our boat, The Cachalote on a quay covered with sleeping sealions. Our boat was about 100ft. long about the size of Darwins Beagle but with motors as well as sails. We had a brilliant crew of Ecuadorians and passengers from Sweden,U.S.A., Canada, Germany, Czech Republic, and Kent, 12 in all. Sailled to our first Island South Plaza,and met seals and Iguanas face to face! LITERALLY. You have to learn to stepover the wild life. We then moored in Puerto Ayora on the main island Santa Cruz
Thur Oct. 30th
Spent this day on the island at the "Darwin" centre. We saw Breeding programs for the endangered Tortoise, this is too complex to explain but fantastic. We then went to the hills to see "Wild" Giant tortoise. The hills were like Wales on a drizzly August day but with Volcanic craters and Giant tortoise. That night we sailed for 10 hours in a pitching and rolling boat over the open Pacific Ocean. ROUGH!!!
Fri Oct 31st
Few people spoke at breakfast! B´fast 7:00 ashore by 8:00 in a small Zodiac boat called a "Panga" Island of Espinoza. A wet Landing!! Jumping onto the beach from the panga in high surf. Sea lions, Lava Lizards, Mocking birds and then a swim (cool, N. Wales again) from the white coral beach.
Lunch on board and then a dry landing we liked these but this one hsd the boat outrunning 6 to 10 foot surf to get into the landing, tricky!! Great sea-bird life. Nazca Booby, Blue -Footed Booby (Doing their mating dance, it might catch on) and Albatross, chicks and magnificently flying adults. We also saw a Rare Galapagos Hawk and a 25 metre blowhole. Jen enjoyed the next bit as we sailed again, using sails to stabalize us.
Sat 1st Nov.
8:00 am wet landing on Floreana. Perfect volcanic island with many old cones. Large flamingo lagoons with Greater Flamingos. Walked on to a coral beach with landing and launching Turtles and Stingrays in the surf. Many Turtle egg nests.
Another excellent lunch on board our chef was a genius meals several courses on time whatever the boat was doing. thes were served in style by a balletic waiter called Enrique. next a "Wet" landing in Post Office bay aplace of sailing ledgend where you leve postcards hopefully for later callers to deliver. We picked up 4 to deliver, one in Northfield Birmingham. Swam warm and comfortable until strong surf threw us back onto the beach. Sailed into a brilliant sunset but dinner needed Enriques balletic skills and our catching ability and sleep at 1:30 am when we anchored was welcome.
Sun 2nd Nov
We are now in the far west, the island of Isabella. BREATHTAKING. Huge gently sloping volcanos and blue skies. Only 2 tour boats left by now, us and a three masted schooner, others wimped out and returned to tamer waters. Dry Lava landing and a walk over a vast lava field only 100 years old. Interesting rock pools- Shark, Turtle, Porcupine fish as well as the pretty ones. Pools further inland linked to the sea by lava tunnels were brakish and had Flamingos, Stilts, Moorhens, Grebes and the rara Galapagos Martin. All surrounded by masses of black lava under a hot sun. Fantastic!
Lunch Fantastic also! Afternoon was a Panga ride in a Mangrove Swamp. Saw Pelicans diving, Flightless cormorants and Galapagos penguins on the rocks on the way in, Herons, swimming Penguins, Turtles and sealions (some sleeping in trees!!!) in the swamps. Rocky ride back in the Pangas. A night at anchor, for which we were all greatfull.
Mon 3rd Nov
Up anchor 5:30am. sailed to Urvina Bay. Wet landing walk through a dried mangrove lagoon. Dried because an earthquke raised it 16 feet in one night. Gient tortoise and large land iguanas. Superb warm swim on the beach at about 9:00am. Wonderful rock pools with bright coloured Moray eel.
Sailing for lunch to the island of Fernandina, throught the Bolivar Channel We sighted our second whale and later that day we saw more. Probably Brydes Whale but possibly Finback.
A dry landing on the youngest volcanic island. We saw vast numbers of marine iguanas and much again of the widlife previously seen. Most interesting was a "Beachmaster" male sealion who was guarding 4 cubs playing in the water. He was asleep on the job which brought comment but as soon as another young male sealion swam up the back he snapped into action and chased him ferociously and fast back to sea.
Evening saw us chasing whales and sailing past vast collapsed volcano cones into another glorious sunset, all on deck with beer and luxurious "nibbles". As the sun gave way to a brilliant starlit night and as the GPS recorder approached and reached zero degrees of Latitude we all drank Enriques cocktails with the Captain on the Bridgeto celebrate crosing the Equator.
We paid for this beauty with another rough passge south after dinner.
Tues 4th Nov
San Salvador island. James Bay. 7:15 Wet landing Walk to the Grottoes of the Fur Seals. These have much sillier ears than sealions and huge eyes for night fishing. Plenty of the usual wild life waders, iguanas, sealions.
Sailed at 11:00. The boat as usual was escorted by a squadron of the beautiful Frigate birds. Unfortunately this time their aim was good and Geoff was well and truly "pooped".
Afternoon saw us at Batolome Island. This is a stunning blasted volcanic Moonscape used inscenes from the movie Master and Commander. We took a panga ride to look at penguins, and watch blue-footed Boobies dive bombing people snorkling. It is possible that we made only the second ever sighting of a Green Heron in Galapagos, Monika our guide need to check with our pictures with the Darwin Foundation.
We then landed and climbed to the top of the island to see this sensational land of volcanic spatter cones and lava flows as the sun started setting.
We sailed for Santa Cruz having a cocktail farewaell dinner and anchored at 8:00.Phew!
Wed 5th Nov.
Panga ride BEFORE breakfast.6:00am. Mangrove swamp with all the usual birds but, baby sharks simming all around our panga in the lagoon and massive Spotted Manta Rays rising from the mud right next to us. It was nice. We´ve runout of superlatives . This made a magical ending to our cruise. By 9:00 we were onshore and off to the airport after saying very fond farewells to our crew and our brilliant guide Monika. All of us passengers had gelled well and we were all sorry to be going our separate ways. If any of you "shipmates read this when you are back home thanks for making it a great trip.
We are now in Quito with more amazing thing to report but we are all blogged out and must now pack. Peru tomorrow night. Will try to upload pictures when we get a faster computer.
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