Thursday 26th November

We left Kaikoura earlty this morning and headed for Christchurch. We are still surprised at the difference between North and South Islands, though everyone warned us. South is generally much wilder, where North is mostly cultivated. South has mostly sheepfarming (lots of little lambs around today.) But the plains around Christchurch are very fertile. Christchurch itself is a lovely town, some beautiful old (or old-looking) buildings. We puffed our way to the top of the cathedral tower and went on the old tram which does a town-centre circuit. We really loved it and want to go back and become tramdrivers. We also drove through Hagley Park, named after Hagley Hall and funded by the Lyttletons.
Then we headed for Artur's Pass, only an hour or so away but like a different universe. As we began to climb into the high mountains, we stopped at Castle Hill - should have been a setting for Lord of the Rings, though it wasn't. Enormous limstone outcrops, in weird shapes, with a blackbird sitting on the top of the highest singing his heart out. One of my (Jen's) favourite places so far. Then Geoff had to employ all his rally-driving skills as we wove up and down massive passes, dropping into huge braided river-valleys full of golden broom and blue lupins. Finally we reached Arthur's Pass and stopped at a lookout where 2 of those naughty keas were waiting to strip the rubber off cars - we dissuaded them They are beautiful birds but with a very naughty glint in their eyes. Finally we arrived at our campsite, Jackson's Retreat - miles from anywhere (in the wop-wpops) but must be the best almost anywhere - or so all the visitors' comments in the feedback book say. Even the worms are looked after! The compost goes to a wormery. It's unbelievably eco-friendly (go for a walk, for instance, and scatter native plant seeds.) So Jen is in paradise. Add sumtuous views of snowcapped peaks and extreme comfort provided -it's perfect.